The menswear couture guide: sherwani, bandhgala, achkan
The key silhouettes of Indian menswear couture, how they differ and what to get right in fit and finishing.
Indian menswear couture is tailoring first. The silhouettes are simple; luxury comes from cut, fabric and finishing.
Sherwani
A long coat, usually knee length or longer, with a stand collar and front opening. Worn for weddings, often in brocade, raw silk or velvet, and paired with churidar, dhoti or straight trousers.
Achkan
Close to the sherwani but typically more fitted through the body, with a cleaner line. Often lighter in ornament.
Bandhgala
A hip-length jacket with a closed band collar, the most versatile piece in Indian formalwear. It works from receptions to formal dinners.
What to get right
- Shoulder and chest fit: these cannot be easily altered later.
- Collar height and stand: comfortable but crisp.
- Canvas and interlining so the front stays smooth.
- Embroidery placement that follows the cut: collar, placket, cuffs and hem.
Trend direction
Forecut sees ivory and pastel sherwanis with tone-on-tone thread work and velvet bandhgalas for winter as strong directions, with jewellery-like details such as collar brooches.
