Fabric forecast: the materials shaping the next seasons

One over, one under: the simplest and strongest structure. Poplin, voile, khadi, organza and linen.

Yarns step over two or more, creating diagonal lines. Durable and drapey: denim, gabardine, drill.

Long floats on the surface for a smooth, lustrous face. Satin, sateen and duchesse.

Two or more yarns woven together as one, a chunky, textured plain weave. Oxford cloth, hopsack.

Small geometric patterns woven in: dots, diamonds and textured stripes.

Large, complex woven motifs controlled thread by thread. Brocades, damasks and Banarasi silks.

Warp yarns twist around the weft for an open, stable mesh. Light summer fabrics and gauze.

Extra yarns form loops or cut tufts on the surface. Velvet, corduroy and terry.

Smooth face, loops on the back; light and stretchy. T-shirts.

Alternating knit and purl columns; very elastic. Cuffs, neckbands, fitted tops.

Double-knit, smooth on both sides, stable. Premium tees and babywear.

Textured honeycomb surface. Polo shirts.

Grid of raised squares that trap air. Henleys, layering.

Stitches crossed over each other to form ropes. Fisherman and cricket sweaters.

Small eyelets arranged in patterns. Light summer knits.

Large open stitches for breathable, lacy knits. Summer cover-ups.

Blocks of colour knitted in without floats. Logos, graphic motifs.

Multi-colour patterns with floats or backing. Winter knits.

Machine knits made lengthwise; run-resistant. Linings, lace, activewear.

Panels knitted to shape instead of cut, with fashion marks at the seams. Fine-gauge knitwear.

Carved wooden blocks stamped by hand: Bagru, Sanganeri and Ajrakh are famous Indian traditions.

A mud-paste resist applied before dyeing, giving soft cracked outlines; from Rajasthan.

Pen-drawn or block-printed designs coloured with natural dyes; from Andhra Pradesh.

Wax resist applied by hand or block before dyeing, with characteristic crackle lines.

Fabric folded, stitched, bound or clamped before dyeing; bandhani is India's fine tie-dye.

Ink pushed through screens for crisp repeats; the workhorse of mass printing.

Designs printed directly from a file, allowing photographic detail, short runs and less water.

Colour removed from dyed fabric to create lighter patterns with a soft handle.

Metallic foils or pigments bonded to fabric for festive shine.

Chemicals dissolve one fibre in a blend, leaving sheer patterns against velvet or satin.

Light, open and transparent. Ideal for scattered sequins, appliqué and floating 3D flowers.

Crisp and sheer. Holds structured embroidery, cut-work and petals beautifully.

Fluid and light. Best for lighter thread work and scattered embellishment.

Firm and slubby. Carries heavy zardozi and dense thread work without puckering.

Rich pile that makes metallic embroidery glow; needs careful handling.

Light silk-cotton with sheen. Good for gota, zari borders and light resham.

Soft and fine. The traditional base for chikankari and shadow work.

Matte and drapey. Suits sequin and bead work on gowns and sarees.

Textured, natural bases for kantha, Kutch work and contemporary thread embroidery.

Lucknow

White-on-white shadow and knot work on fine cotton.

Lucknow, Agra, Delhi

Raised metal-thread embroidery for bridal and couture.

Bengal, Odisha

Running-stitch quilting and embroidery.

Punjab

Darning-stitch floss silk embroidery that can cover the cloth.

Karnataka

Counted-thread geometric embroidery, identical on both sides.

Gujarat

Interlaced stitches and mirror work in bright colours.

Kashmir, Gujarat and widely

Fine chain stitch made with a hooked needle.

Kashmir

Fine needle embroidery on shawls; crewel in wool on cotton.

Rajasthan

Appliquéd gold and silver ribbon motifs.

Odisha

Brightly coloured cut fabric appliqué.

Karnataka, Telangana

Mirror, coin and pattern-darning embroidery.

Nilgiris

Red and black darning embroidery on white cotton.

Japan

Running-stitch reinforcement embroidery, now a global visible-mending style.

Europe

White cut-work eyelet embroidery on cotton.

Europe

Gathered fabric held in decorative stitches, popular on summer dresses.

Hand-spun, hand-woven cotton, silk or wool. Breathable with a gentle slub.

Light, sheer silk-cotton from Madhya Pradesh with zari motifs.

Silk-cotton from Maheshwar with reversible borders and stripes.

Varanasi silk brocades with rich zari jacquard motifs.

Heavy mulberry silk from Tamil Nadu with contrast borders.

Fine muslin from Bengal with motifs inlaid by hand on the loom.

Maharashtrian silk with tapestry-woven peacock and lotus borders.

Double ikat silk from Patan, Gujarat: warp and weft both resist-dyed.

Telangana ikat with sharp geometric patterns.

Rajasthani cotton-silk with a fine checked grid.

Tie-dye from Gujarat and Rajasthan: tiny resist-tied dots.

Block-printed, resist-dyed cotton from Kutch and Sindh in indigo and madder.

Hand-painted or block-printed cotton from Andhra Pradesh using natural dyes.