SS27 runway fabric report: what New York, London, Milan and Paris were made of
The fabrics behind the SS27 shows, city by city, and Forecut's read on which ones will reach Indian stores.
The Spring/Summer 2027 shows ran from New York in mid-September to Paris on 6 October 2026. Across all four cities one idea kept returning: fabric that feels lighter than air. Here is what the runways were made of, and what it means for the season ahead.
New York: sheer goes commercial
New York showed see-through skirts paired with covered-up tops at Calvin Klein, Eckhaus Latta, Brandon Maxwell and Thom Browne, and head-to-toe sheer at Prabal Gurung and Vettese. Silk shirts and light knits were tied low at the waist. Luminous Blue, the 2027 colour of the year, and marigold led the palette.
London: organza as a canvas
London decorated sheer bases. Burberry placed floral appliqué on powder-blue organza, Alexander McQueen printed acid florals on reflective organza, and Vin + Omi built a gown of 3D flowers made from recycled plastic. Frayed, hand-cut layers of silk, cotton and gauze (Dreaming Eli) and torn lace (KNWLS) gave the craft story a raw edge.
Milan: sheer meets gloss
Milan added shine. Ferragamo showed liquid, latex-effect rubber and a PVC suit, MSGM a glossy nylon shirt, Bottega Veneta crinkled nylon and taffeta with its intrecciato weave. Organza, tulle and long crochet knit dresses kept the romantic side alive.
Paris: the featherlight finale
Paris made lightness the headline: ultrafine ripstop nylon coats at Issey Miyake, sheer organza sets at Chanel, soft tailoring in sheer fabrics at Dior and broderie anglaise at Chloé. Crepe, voile and fine knits were cut to feel weightless.
Forecut read: what reaches stores
- Sheer over opaque: overlays, skirts and sleeves on lined garments. The most sellable version of the trend.
- Organza and voile for summer occasion wear and lighter festive layers in India.
- Glossy technical cottons and crinkle nylon as the everyday version of Milan's gloss.
- Appliqué and raw edges on sheer bases, a natural fit for Indian embroidery units.
See every fabric trend's lifecycle in the Forecut fabric forecast.
Sources: Fashionista, TheIndustry.fashion, nss magazine, Monocle, Forbes.
