Knitting designs: stitches, gauges and how to specify them
Rib, cable, pointelle, jacquard and more, plus gauge explained, so you can brief knitwear with confidence.
Knitwear is designed stitch by stitch. Learning the main structures and how to specify them makes sampling faster and results more predictable.
Gauge explained
Gauge (GG) is the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine. Low gauges (3–7GG) make chunky, warm knits; mid gauges (10–12GG) make classic sweaters; fine gauges (14–18GG and above) make light, smooth knits for polos and layering.
Key stitches
- Rib: elastic; for cuffs, hems and fitted bodies.
- Cable: crossed stitches; adds texture and warmth.
- Pointelle and openwork: eyelets for light summer knits.
- Waffle: grid texture that traps air.
- Jacquard and intarsia: colour patterns and motifs.
How to brief a knit
- Yarn composition and count
- Gauge and stitch, with a swatch or photo reference
- Finished weight per garment
- Trims: rib depth, neck finish, linking
- Colour as Pantone TCX references
Trend direction
For SS27, Forecut sees open-stitch, pointelle and waffle textures rising while heavy chunky ribs have peaked.
See SS27 knitwear details in the SS27 forecast.
